Bread bakers set aside a portion of yeasted dough to act as a starter for the next batch of bread. This starter is called a sponge, poolish, levain de boulanger in French, and biga in Italian. But in this medieval soup of the Jews of North Africa it is the foundation to a soup. The […]
Archives for March 2018
Mantı, The Turkish and Armenian Delicacy Everyone Should Make
March 19, 2018 by Leave a Comment
The roots of everyday Turkish cuisine, as opposed to the court cuisine, are found in the Turkic tribes of the Central Asia and perhaps the pre-existing Greek inhabitants of Anatolia. As the Turkish food authority Nevin Halıcı suggests, a study of the food habits of contemporary Kazan Turks and Tatars might indicate a close relationship […]
An Unusual Chinese-inspired Duck Sandwich From England
March 12, 2018 by Leave a Comment
This delicious sandwich or wrap is thought to have been invented in Great Britain, perhaps around Brighton, where a duck wrap is also a vulgar expression denoting a particular sex act. There’s nothing vulgar here, rather it’s pure ecstasy when you sink your teeth into this perfect and intriguing blend of duck, hoisin, and watercress. […]
A Provençal Stuffed Cabbage for A Cold Day
March 5, 2018 by Leave a Comment
Sou fassum, the Provençal name, is known in French as chou farci à la Niçoise. It is a specialty of the region around Grasse. Traditionally, the stuffed cabbage leaves are placed in a net made of thick threads called a fassumier that is then lowered into a good chicken broth to be cooked. Although cabbage […]
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